by Helen
(Panama)

Have a Great 2009!

As soon as we landed back in Panama City I really noticed the differences between living in a large city on the Pacific as opposed to a small town on the Caribbean. The air was hotter for a start. It must be all the concrete. Rarely was I too hot in Bocas. Not that I was laying in the sun at midday or anything crazy like that. Actually, sometimes in the evening I could definitely have done with an extra layer. I could also have done with an umbrella! Panama City is now well into the dry season and won’t have much rain now for a few months while Bocas never goes long without a tropical shower.

After walking the three minutes it takes to get there (you can walk everywhere in Bocas Town), we got a 48 seater twin prop plane from Bocas’s tiny airport and 40 minutes later arrived in the capital’s domestic airport right next to Albrook Mall. Being veterans we got the bus back home at the cost of a dollar as opposed to the $20 or so a taxi would have charged.

Inevitably we got stuck in crazy traffic along Avenue Balboa (more than 5 cars on the road at any one time is weird in Bocas and most transportation is done by boat or taxi) and were subjected to the fruity aroma of poop coming off the bay by fashionable Punta Pacifica. In Bocas the sea is pristine although the odd drain or dustbin occasionally grabs your attention. We watched the huge ships lining up for their turn to pass through the canal and it reminded me of the Christmas Boat Parade in Bocas.

We were pretty excited really and got a good place to sit at the restaurant and bar 9 Degrees where we ordered a nice cold glass of Chardonnay. Slowly they came into view, covered in lights and shooting off fireworks and shouting out Feliz Navidad to us onlookers on the shore – all four of them. Boats that is, not onlookers. Yes that’s right just 4 boats! I decided then and there to get involved in local affairs so that by next year at least 20 boats turn up suitably adorned. In a place where half the population owns a boat and tourism is important, it was a poor show to say the least. They did their best anyway by coming by twice and we enjoyed it in a underwhelmed sort of way.

This morning, the first of 2009, we awoke to the whistling calls of the large birds of prey that fly around us on the 9th floor as opposed to the singing of the giant sized blackbirds of Bocas. Wonderfully there was hardly any car noise (no honking or car alarms) and not a worker was beating metal on any of the seven building sites that surround our apartment as everyone appears to be home sleeping off last night. In fact it seems no one goes out on New Year’s Day and most places are closed. The sky is clear with a few puffy clouds, it’s about 28C (with 84% humidity) and we are assured this is how it will stay until May.

As we had been out every evening for the past two weeks during our stay in Bocas we opted to eat in for New Year’s Eve. After a couple of Mohitos and a shared bottle of Chilean Cabernet we never actually made it to midnight! We vaguely heard the joyfull hooting of horns and exploding of fireworks as they entered our dreams through our bedroom window.

It was nice to eat a big plate of vegetables alongside our roast chicken cooked in beer and lemon grass. Panamanians don’t seem to eat many vegetables, particularly green ones, just large amounts of meat served with coconut rice and beans and perhaps a friend yam or a plantain. The best source of vitamin C here seems to be the fresh pineapple or passion fruit juice in the rum cocktails.

While we were in Bocas all the shops ran out of fresh vegetables and fruit entirely for three days as there was a mudslide over the road from David. This road had already been reduced to one new lane carved out after the road was washed away in the unusually heavy rains of a month ago. Had we been in Panama City of course a quick trip to El Rey’s supermarket at any time of night and day would have filled our super-duper double-doored ice-making, ice-crushing, cold filtered water dispensing, instant freezing, American fridge with all kinds of fruit and veg in a jiffy. I think we just get a fridge that keeps things cool in Bocas!

Anyway with the lack of supplies in town we were forced to eat jumbo prawn Thai curry and rice and slabs of beef and quarters of grilled marinated chicken with more fragrant coconut rice. It was terrible!:) When the supplies finally arrived though we did buy a huge pineapple and ate the whole thing in one go, feeling like scurvy may have been just round the corner.

It made me think about Christopher Columbus and his men who sailed to these beautiful islands all those years ago. They must have been delighted to restock their galleys with tropical fruits and fresh food brought by the friendly Indians after months of salted meat and rotting pickled cabbage.

The island San Cristobal, just 15 minutes from Bocas Town is named after him and he sailed all round these islands. Today the Indians still come by your dock on dug out canoes and offer fish, lobsters, limes and home-made ‘tomales’ wrapped in banana leaves. The only difference now I suppose is they are wearing shorts and a Yankees baseball cap and they have a mobile phone in their back pocket.

Anyway, differences are good, nothing ever stays still and cities are still getting bigger (particularly this one). We, however, have opted for the slower pace of life and more intimate life style of Bocas over the noisy more material world of the capital. A couple of weeks here to sort out a few things and we will be back ‘home’ on the islands of Bocas.

We wish everyone a wonderful year and encourage you all to go for what makes you happy!

January 1 2009

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The story of the new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace, is set in Bolivia and Haiti. In reality however, the filming was all carried out in Panama, particulary in Casco Viejo and the islands of Bocas. The movie was adapted from a short story that the original creator of 007, Ian Flemming, wrote in 1960 and promises twice as much action as seen in Casino Royale. Olga Kurylenko, who plays Bond Girl Camille in the film is going to be very different from the previous bond girl – she is a fighter looking for revenge! An Extra’s View from Panama. September 5, 2008 by Cerrito Cynthia It was an exciting few months early this year in Panama when they were filming the next James Bond movie, The Quantum of Solace, due to is shown in cinemas this coming November 2008.A number of people were fortunate to be chosen as extras and I was one of them. I had never thought of joining the group of some 1000 extras but a friend eventually convinced me to go and sign up. Although I had done television advertising before, I had never been on a big movie set prior to this and it was very interesting. Costumes, makeup, hair, coordination. And the waiting….. for hours upon hours. We really came to appreciate what it takes to be a professional in the business. It seems glamorous but it is very hard work. The first scene I was in was shot was a night scene in the old Union Club in Casco Viejo, Panama City. We changed into our costumes and had hair and makeup done in an enormous underground garage which had been revamped into dressing rooms, cafeteria, and makeup. Then we were allowed outside to wait for our calls. It was beautiful weather and since Casco Viejo is beside the ocean it was quite lovely at night. There, we pulled three all nighters in a row for Bond. Super tiring but awesome in the professionalism, coordination and detail that went into the making of it by the mainly British crew. Watching Daniel Craig (James Bond) and the pros shoot their scenes numerous times to get it right for the exacting Golden Globe nominated director Steven Forster — German born, educated in Switzerland he studied film in New York. Forster made his directorial debut in 2000 and most recently directed the Kite Runner. Daniel Craig is said to be one of the finest actors of his generation in stage, screen and television. His supporting actors included: Olga Kurylenko, Mathieu Almalric, Gemma Arterton, Jeffrey Wright, and of course Judy Dench. An old historic building (former Union Club) was used which they revamped just for this. Set in Bolivia the scene was shot in Panama. It was an elegant extravaganza during which Dominic Greene (a criminal mastermind played by Mathieu Almalric), gives an important speech (I almost had it memorized–cannot tell you the speech, if I did M might send Bond to silence me). We were among the some 700 in this scene, dressed in elegant evening wear. Along with the cool party set, there were several stunts so the scene should be a great one. Several weeks later I went again in one of several buses (some 50 extras) to Colon to shoot our next scene on a private island on the Caribbean coast in Panama (in the movie I believe it is Haiti). We stayed overnight in a hotel in Colon City, a very seedy port (not many of us were on the streets after dark, or even in the daylight!) Then before dawn we drove the hour to a site on the Caribbean Coast. There we dressed for the tropics and were made up, then taken by small local fishing boats (called pangas) to the private island. What a beautiful location. Since the extras group was rather small, we had a very enjoyable day acting as the “background”, waiting, chatting, taking in some sun, and eating from a scrumptious buffet. I was in a group of about 10 or so asked to be background in one of Bond’s heroic action scenes where he speeds up to the dock in his powerboat and carries the beautiful Camille (Olga Kurylenko) ashore who has been hurt. It was excellent to have the chance to watch the making of a major movie from within. What an awesome day. Late in the afternoon we were bussed back to Panama City and said good bye to the friends we had made during the shoot. I believe most of us had a great time and what a once in a lifetime experience. Would I do it again? Indeed I would. We were absolutely not allowed to take photos which are a shame because I cannot share them with you here. So the only souvenir I will have is to buy a copy of the film once it becomes available.

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Panama for bird watching is heaven! It is a tropical country with a large variety of easily accessible habitats, is a great place not only for an introduction to the birds of the American tropics, but is arguably the best bird watching place in the world! There are 950 species of birds with over 10,000 varieties of plants, more than North America and Europe combined! The typical Neotropical families, like trogons, antbirds, and tanagers are well represented, some, like the tyrant flycatchers, by a hundred different species, and others by just a few.

Birders You’re in Heaven!

You will find large numbers of birds, especially when considering the relatively small surface of the country. Some 150 of these are Neotropical migrants that only occur in the country from September until April. It is not rare to see more than twenty different migrant warblers and vireos on a good morning on spring or fall migration, and that added to the sixty resident species. This variety in bird species is partly explained by the fact that Panama is a land bridge between North and South America. Therefore, Panama’s resident avifauna is composed of a mix of birds from both North and South America. In Panama it is possible for bird watchers to find species typical of Central America like Passerini’s Tanager, Green Shrike-Vireo, and Resplendent Quetzals, as well as their South American Counterparts: Flame-rumped Tanager, Yellow-browed Shrike-Vireo, and Golden-headed Quetzal.

The Birds Meet in the Middle

As it would be expected, the South American birds are easier to find on the eastern portion of the country, while the Central American species are found west of the Canal Area. The birds of the central part of the country, the area surrounding Panama City, include species from both ends.

Bird Watching in Eastern Panama, San Blas and Darién

Eastern Panama, San Blas and Darién, are generally inaccessible for bird watching, and visiting requires extensive planning. However, it is well worth the hassle, especially if you really need a Speckled Antshrike on your life list. In Eastern Panama you’ll also have a better chance of seeing the Harpy Eagle, Panama’s National Bird. There is a road out in that direction, but the best way to get there is by plane. There is regular service to a few small towns in the lowlands, like El Real, but to get to Cana and the foothills you’ll have to either charter a flight or hike all the way up. The foothills are where the endemics are: Green-naped Tanager, Pirre Warbler, Beautiful Treerunner, Tacarcuna Wood-Quail, etc. A lot of the Darién specialties can also be found in the lowlands. A few species can only be seen in the lowlands, like Black Oropendola, Spectacled Parrotlet and Black Antshrike.

Central Panama Birds

Central Panama has the most easily accessed forests of Central America, and bird watching is easy and productive. Some species are very common throughout the city, and a few hours of birding in any city park can produce a long list of birds. Tropical Kingbirds, Social Flycatchers, Clay-colored Thrushes and Blue-gray, Palm and Crimson-backed Tanagers are hard to miss, as is the ubiquitous Great-tailed Grackle. The dry forests of the Metropolitan Nature Park, which is right next to Panama City, are typical of the Pacific Slope. On a morning walk of any of its trails you may find Lance-tailed Manakin, Slaty-tailed Trogon or a Pheasant Cuckoo. The Rosy Thrush-Tanager is very common here, and you’ll certainly hear, if not see, one or two.

Bird Watching on the Famous Pipeline Road

Closer to the Caribbean Sea, the highlight has to be. You can reach Pipeline Rd. by vehicle and start our hike from the entrance. Pipeline Rd. is the site where Audubon Society held its world Christmas bird count record for 19 years in a row, with 357 species of birds identified in a period of 24 hours, by far more than any other nation. For more on Travel in Panama click here

Bird Watching in the Soberania National Park

The pipeline was built during World War II; a pipeline was built along the Panama Canal to transport fuel from one ocean to the other in the event it was attacked. I’m really glad they didn’t need it, because how else could you see all this???

The pipeline provides excellent access to primary rainforests within Soberania National Park. Only 45 minutes from Panama City, Soberania’s 55,000 acres boast some 525 species of birds including the Black Hawk-eagle, Black-cheeked woodpecker, Black-breasted puffbird, Broad-billed motmot, Blue cotinga, Purple-throated fruitcrow, Masked tytira, Violaceous trogon, Fasciated antshrike, Shining honeycreeper, and a great array of migrants (during the North American winter months).

If you want to see forest birds, like Rufous-breasted Ground-Cuckoo, then Pipeline Road is the place to go. You’ll certainly see a lot of Atlantic Slope birds and you may even find some foothill species like Tawny-crested Tanager or Sirystes.There are some Crocodiles, so watch for bubbly water. Most of the guides are indigenous Indians, and are prepared for anything. I think the view is better (and safer) in one of the elevated cages aboard the guides jeeps.

Soberania is also home to 105 species of mammals including large felines, Tamandua, Two and Three-toed sloth, 4 species of monkeys, Agouti, some of which are listed under CITES (endangered species) and 59 endemic plant species in 4 life zones.

where your hotel room is at the same level as the tree tops!

Bird Watching in the Western Panama Region

But to really experience the Atlantic Slope and its birds you need to go to Achiote Road, in the Province of Colón. It’s the best place to see White-headed Wren, besides Darién, and Montezuma Oropendola, besides Bocas Del Toro. Dusky-faced and Sulphur-rumped Tanagers are seen regularly, and it’s usual to see a gorgeous male Blue Cotinga perched in full sunlight on an exposed branch by the road.

The easiest way to get to Western Panama for bird watching is by plane, but you can also use the Inter-American Highway, which reaches all the way to the Costa Rican border. In the way you’ll pass mostly savannas and small patches of second growth, prime raptor habitat. Crested and Yellow-headed Caracaras are very common, but you can also see Pearl Kite and Aplomado Falcon. During the boreal winter look for White-tailed Hawk.

There’s virtually no forest left in the Pacific Lowlands of Western Panama, so the best birding is in the highlands. According to BirdLife International, the western highlands, from Cerro Campana all the way to Costa Rica, are a one of the areas with the highest levels of endemism in the world. Species like Black Guan, Dusky Nightjar, Fiery-throated Hummingbird and Bare-throated Umbrellabird are found there and nowhere else. Most of these species are also found in adjacent Costa Rica but a few, like Yellow-green Finch and Glow-throated Hummingbird, are only found in Panama.

Unlike Eastern Panama, traveling in Western Panama is easy: the roads are in generally good condition and there are plenty of places to stay. Getting to good forest is easy, and some species are very common. In the towns of Boquete and Cerro Punta you can find Band-tailed Pigeons, Rufous-collared Sparrows and Blue-and-white Swallows, but the best birding is along the roads that go up into the mountains. Even second growth forest can produce good results, especially during spring or fall migration, when our flocks of resident warblers and redstarts are joined by their northern counterparts. When you reach real forest look for treerunners and other furnariids, but don’t forget to check the undergrowth for skulking Wrentrhushes and Silvery-fronted Tapaculos.

Take a Walk

Panama provides you with some of the world’s best bird watching opportunities, no matter how long your life list is or how into birding you are. Whether you go out on just a morning bird walk on Summit Gardens or in a trek up Volcán Barú in search of Volcano Junco and Timberline Wren, you’ll certainly have a lot of fun. To get ahold of the Panama Audubon Society
email audupan@pananet.com

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