Darien – The Region of Darien in Panama

Until 20 years ago there was not a single road in the province of Darien which borders onto Colombia. For hundreds of years it defied explorers and the jungle was home only to Indians whose lives had not changed for millennia.

These days, whilst the region still contains some of the most unspoiled land in the Americas it is now a region ravaged by the hand of man. The Pan-American Highway has been built as far as Yaviza, just 100km from the Columbian border. This has given access to farmers and loggers who slash, burn and plunder – erasing areas of breathtaking beauty and ecological importance at an alarming rate.

The pressure to finish the road is huge but being actively fought by ecologists who want to save the remaining truly virgin rainforest from destruction. Given this ‘Darien Gap’ is the only thing stopping a straight run from North to South America the chances are it will get built and probably quite soon.

The Jungle in Panama

The wild and inaccessible southern area therefore still remains pristine with an incredible array of wildlife, plants and birds in 576,000ha of what is now now a conservation area of jungle, swamp, beaches, mountains, rivers and waterfalls. It is here that you can see speckles antshrike, harpy eagle, green-naped tanager, pirre warbler, tree runner, macaw, caiman, the giant American crocodile, deer, ocelot, jaguar, anteater as well as all kinds of monkey, snake, insect and butterfly. Spotting most of these during a 3-4 day expedition is not in the least unlikely. A hot hazardous climate, mud and bugs galore, unmarked trails and few places to stay make it a challenge though and only fit for adventurous travellers. The only way to discover it is usually with a canoe and guide and a machete.

Travelling though certain parts of Darien is considered dangerous as violence continues between Colombian paramilitaries and insurgents spilling over the border. You should really travel with an organised group.

It is advisable to take vaccinations for Yellow Fever and precautions against Malaria in this region.

The Darien National Park

This park is the largest protected area in Panama and extends along more than 80% of the Columbian border, forming a land bridge between Central and South America. It is a World Heritage site and recognised as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. There are 450 different species of bird to be found here in incredible numbers whilst only 1,300 humans live in the reserve comprising two Indian tribes of Cocos and Kuna. In recent years some of the villages have opened up to visitors and one riverside community offers overnight accommodation with permission of the chief.

You get there by flying to El Real with ANCON who then transfer you to the Cana Scientific Station or flying to La Palma and getting a boat to El Real and then hiking to the nearest ranger station. You can stay at any of the ANAM ranger stations at a cost of $5 a night for a bunk bed in a dorm. Most people engage a guide many of whom use horses to transport tents, back-backs and supplies as well as GPS, flares and medical supplies.

Coastal Darien

La Palma

La Palma on the coast is the largest community in Darien with a bank, a medical centre, a police station, vehicle repair shop, a few bars and hotels and a line of food vendors. One of the nicest places to stay according to Sarah Woods’ Panama guide is the Pension Tuira or the Hotel Biaquira Bagara.

Punta Alegre

If you love music you have to go to Punta Alegre (meaning Happy Point), a small Afro-Darienite village just 8km southwest of La Palma. The 500 people living here are famous for their love of music which they play from dawn to dusk. There are a few small restaurants here serving locally caught seafood all day.

Punta Patino

This is a former coconut plantation turned reserve made up of 13,805ha of wetland. Visitors either get here by plane from Panama City or by foot, horse or canoe from El Real or Yaviza. Here you can find dozens of threatened species of flora and fauna including jaguar, puma and turtles.

The boat trip from La Palma to Punta Patino is delightful and hugs the shore-line past mangroves and fishing areas. Once there you can stay in one of the 10 brightly painted cabins of the Punta Patina Lodge which are situated in a bougainvillea filled garden with wonderful views for just $10 a night.

Bahia Pina

If you like fishing for BIG fish, this is for you. Black marlin, blue marlin, sailfish, dorado, grouper, snapper and amberjack are all fished her just 8-20km off-shore, breaking many world sport fishing records in the process. Stay at the Tropic Star Lodge which has its own airstrip served by Aeroperlas from Chitre, Colon, Panama City and David on various days of the week. The lodge has a great reputation and has many Hollywood stars as guests. Accommodation is self-contained cabins with an excellent bar and restaurant. Prices are around $2,750 per person for 6 nights. The property is often booked 12 months ahead so reservation is essential. The reservation is a Florida number – 0407 682 3424.

Jaque

This is a much more modest base about 8km from the Tropic Star. It is a poor community of Indians and refugees from Columbia who will put you up and feed you for a fee.

Other Places to Visit on the Coast

Other places to visit include the fishing community of Garachine as well as Playa Muerto where your visit will be heralded by the 100 or so local children who play in the shallow waters here. It is also worth going to Sambu where you can hire a guide with a motorised dugout canoe for an unforgettable river trip through lush primeval jungle scenery, passing Embera tribesmen with blowguns and spears and crocodiles basking on the banks.

The Darien Interior

Santa Fe is a little town about 20km from Meteti with a grocery store, bakery and a couple of not very nice cheap hotels. The best time to visit is the Fiesta in the first week of March.

Meteti is a roadside town with family run pensiones and a few restaurants. The bus drivers stop here and the bars play loud salsa and the cantinas serve good cheap food all day. The Hotel Felicidad is the best place to stay according to Sarah Woods in her Panama guide.

Yaviza is a dismal place where visitors stop off to register with the police before travelling into the jungle. If you have to stay here the faded Hotel 3 Americas is where to stay.

El Real is a hot steamy ramshackle town on the edge of the jungle. You can hire a guide and horses here.

Boca de Cupe is an ex-gold mining town transformed into much smaller border control town. There are sandbagged police defensive positions here since Columbian guerrillas overran the town on 2003.

The Best Guides in Darien

Many independent travellers to Darien recommend a natural history expert and guide called Hernan Arauz as well as Mario Bernal. Ancon Expeditions and ECO Circuits offer specialist wildlife and adventure tours to Darien.

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